Our mission today is to take a glimpse of the past and look at the way of life of the early immigrants in NYC. In one form or another some of us could probably trace our ancestry to someone who has sailed the Mayflower or passed through Ellis Island. Being an immigrant myself makes the best case for not passing up the opportunity to visit the Tenement Museum on the Lower East Side. I was somewhat disappointed with the docent’s presentation, but it was an up-close learning experience.
The Tenement Museum building on Orchard Street prides itself with the signature old New York City wrought iron railings and freshly stained wood moldings. In contrast however, hidden behind the ornamented façade, there live some remarkable but sad life stories not known to many. A few steps away is a former haberdashery turned into a men’s boutique now selling trousers at an easy $300 a pair. Across the street from the museum is the Hotel Blue Moon formerly tenement housing transformed into a 22- room eight storey luxury hotel a nightly rental of which fetches from $295 to $1,000. Today this is the picture of the Lower East Side but in 1863 this district is anything but trendy.
Popular in the ‘70s as the bargain district for garments both wholesale and retail, Orchard Street near Delancey and its nearby neighborhoods is culturally diverse. It is hard to walk the streets of the New York or ride its subways, without taking notice that this is a city of immigrants. In 1840, a heavy flow of immigrants arrived into the country. Many of them settled in New York mostly Germans and Irish and later followed by the Chinese.
This residence was constructed by a German-born tailor who saw the need for homes for many immigrants. The housing was shared by people of different ethnic origins. Through this tour, we followed the lives of The Moores, an Irish family, who resided in this tenement housing cramped in a 475 square feet quarters in a four-storey walk-up building. The rooms were set up as they were many decades ago. The halls of the apartment were dim and the place is crumbling. One can almost tell from the peeling layers of wall covering the number of families that have previously occupied the place. The story of their survival and the challenges of adjusting to life in this country is heart-rending, particularly that of feeding the babies with swill milk.
The Tenement Museum building on Orchard Street prides itself with the signature old New York City wrought iron railings and freshly stained wood moldings. In contrast however, hidden behind the ornamented façade, there live some remarkable but sad life stories not known to many. A few steps away is a former haberdashery turned into a men’s boutique now selling trousers at an easy $300 a pair. Across the street from the museum is the Hotel Blue Moon formerly tenement housing transformed into a 22- room eight storey luxury hotel a nightly rental of which fetches from $295 to $1,000. Today this is the picture of the Lower East Side but in 1863 this district is anything but trendy.
Popular in the ‘70s as the bargain district for garments both wholesale and retail, Orchard Street near Delancey and its nearby neighborhoods is culturally diverse. It is hard to walk the streets of the New York or ride its subways, without taking notice that this is a city of immigrants. In 1840, a heavy flow of immigrants arrived into the country. Many of them settled in New York mostly Germans and Irish and later followed by the Chinese.
This residence was constructed by a German-born tailor who saw the need for homes for many immigrants. The housing was shared by people of different ethnic origins. Through this tour, we followed the lives of The Moores, an Irish family, who resided in this tenement housing cramped in a 475 square feet quarters in a four-storey walk-up building. The rooms were set up as they were many decades ago. The halls of the apartment were dim and the place is crumbling. One can almost tell from the peeling layers of wall covering the number of families that have previously occupied the place. The story of their survival and the challenges of adjusting to life in this country is heart-rending, particularly that of feeding the babies with swill milk.
There is so much history in the building and it shows of the support for the immigration movement at the time. It was a moving experience.
Gentrification, however, has spurred so many changes in this district and caused so much anxiety among the small business establishments and the apartment dwellers that are being displaced. The Lower East Side is now home to many high-end eateries, trendy shops and art galleries. One place that survived is the landmark Guss Pickles, the "largest pickle emporium in the world" boasting its barrels of sour tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and sauerkraut by the store entrance. Other buildings of great architectural appeal which are adorned with their fire ladders/verandas in the front (but which some will find nowadays as an eyesore) were also spared.
Gentrification, however, has spurred so many changes in this district and caused so much anxiety among the small business establishments and the apartment dwellers that are being displaced. The Lower East Side is now home to many high-end eateries, trendy shops and art galleries. One place that survived is the landmark Guss Pickles, the "largest pickle emporium in the world" boasting its barrels of sour tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and sauerkraut by the store entrance. Other buildings of great architectural appeal which are adorned with their fire ladders/verandas in the front (but which some will find nowadays as an eyesore) were also spared.
It was surprisingly not difficult to find a Thai restaurant whose prices were knocked down a notch from its upscale relatives. The place is called Sticky Rice and their "box-menus" can hardly be described as tasting of cardboard. They are elaborate Bento boxes and not made of paper. Pad thai or satay - delicious and affordable. (I was so hungry I forgot to take a picture).
That's the flavor of the Lower East Side - authentic even post-gentrification. A must-not-miss when visiting New York. Whether you are an immigrant or not, it deserves your attention.
